La Cena Redux
The Seasons of Lucia Vidales’ Hambre
By José Faus • Spring-Winter 2025
The painting Hambre (Hunger in Spanish) by Lucía Vidales recently on display at the Kemper Contemporary Museum brought many memories to mind.
The painting depicts a dinner with guests arranged about a table abundant in food, surreal references and juxtapositions. It fuels a certain nostalgia, the idea of the large weekend dinners that were the staple of my grandmother’s house. Memory plays with me. I can’t tell you that they took place every weekend, but they should have, and they might have.
I miss them though they were so far in the past I should not have memory of them. The truth is I can’t help but feel there was something complete when all the family gathered round the dinner table. The smell of food cooking would permeate the house from early morning. Us kids knew we were to be tolerated but not entertained. Better to be out of sight then to be in the way of the adults as they prepared the large weekend meal.
All the adults sat at the large table, we sat in the smaller tables at the edge of the large dining room. We would wait until my grandmother’s benediction and then began the clatter of dishes and words flowing across the mounds of food and drinks that littered the table. And the conversations that flowed at the adult table made me wish I had been older and paid attention to what was being said. But we were kids. I don’t recall any "fuzzing" about, minding this or that; the only admonition was if we left the table without permission.
Years later I feel the loss of the communal meal. There have been substitutes, the office potluck, the ritual of the pregame cook outs. I can’t help but feel a loss that nothing has supplanted.
Hambre is the lusting for a time when to gather round a meal was an expectation, a celebration, and not an imposed ritual to preserve a unity slowly disappearing with each passing generation.
Doña Emerita sets a table
Where sprigs bud into flowers
an eternal spring burst into song
Enrique Cercos
She slices the avocados
spreads them like
fans on her mother’s
favorite plate then
sets them on the table
A large basket with a towel
smothering hot tortillas
finds a prominent place
next to the bubbling
olla de frijoles
A savory mix of
tomatillos peppers onions
fills the salsa bowl
Dishes of radishes cucumbers
cilantro and plump limes
brining in vinegar and salt
decorate the table
She brings the pan of rice
with bits of corn carrots
sets it leaving space for
the copper pot he brings
still steaming pungent
the aroma of broiled carnitas
the skin charred golden hot
like a summer sun
He brings plates napkins glasses
an array of drinks
palliative to intoxicating
some in bottles some
in multicolored pitchers
He claps his hands
and steps aside
Siblings, cousins, parents
friends and more children
than the beans in the pot
enter one by one in reverence
solemnity and hunger
Quickly filling their plates
they grab cups move outside
where their chatter laughter
debates and salutations
drown the song of cooing birds
the bark of dogs the snark hisses
of the cats that congregate by the gate
and the slow steps of passersby
casual greetings and
the slow fade to good nights
She watches at the window
sips her Mezcal wipes her hands
on the stained apron
tells him when he asks
what are you thinking
Can you ask Juan to bring
his best chickens
I have something in mind
for next month’s dinner
End of the road
Thousands of corn stalks from the first door
Sleep is not a constant companion
Dreams are houses for demons
I rest with eyes half closed
a mouth open for water
one eye on the machete
by the side of the door
another honest eye on the road
The old man says before the sun falls
We will eat in Eldorado’s gilded hall
Tales of the ancestors
Along paths crossed
by the first clans
vested in feather gowns before
metal breastplates and cannonades
penitent charlatans in search of the sun
burnt the bronze off our skin
These are the last steps
We walk with heads forward
navigating signposts
deep in the ground
the yellow lines
threads of gold leaf
loose in the air phantasms
whispering our name in passing
with seeds of flour and corn
in our bags and the chants
spinning dervish in the air
Like prodigals welcomed
at the last meal of the dying sun
we will march to Cibola’s seven cities
past Aztlan’s and Eldorado’s grand halls
to Quivira to prepare the last meal
and eat for the first time
Gumbo mumbo
I see the ladyfingers
drawn to them by the white
and yellow petals joined
by spots of alizarin
faux hibiscus mimes
Grapes withering on the vine
betray more promise
than the limp fruit
at the tendrils of the stalks
shyly pleading their due
I pick the five-fold flower clean
hold each a mirror to the sun
trace the lines to the cup
the fused stem to the stalk
pluck the green fruit
cut the sheath in half
pull seed from the pentagon
take a nip and swallow
and retch both to the street
A bitter harvest here
If nettles covered its surface
there would still be those
would dissect and scavenge
a succulence only
bitter tongues enjoy
The secret lies in omissions
roux will not accommodate
what the palette can’t embrace