La Cena Redux

The Seasons of Lucia Vidales’ Hambre

By José Faus • Spring-Winter 2025

The painting Hambre (Hunger in Spanish) by Lucía Vidales recently on display at the Kemper Contemporary Museum brought many memories to mind.

The painting depicts a dinner with guests arranged about a table abundant in food, surreal references and juxtapositions. It fuels a certain nostalgia, the idea of the large weekend dinners that were the staple of my grandmother’s house. Memory plays with me. I can’t tell you that they took place every weekend, but they should have, and they might have. 

I miss them though they were so far in the past I should not have memory of them. The truth is I can’t help but feel there was something complete when all the family gathered round the dinner table. The smell of food cooking would permeate the house from early morning. Us kids knew we were to be tolerated but not entertained. Better to be out of sight then to be in the way of the adults as they prepared the large weekend meal.

All the adults sat at the large table, we sat in the smaller tables at the edge of the large dining room. We would wait until my grandmother’s benediction and then began the clatter of dishes and words flowing across the mounds of food and drinks that littered the table. And the conversations that flowed at the adult table made me wish I had been older and paid attention to what was being said. But we were kids. I don’t recall any "fuzzing" about, minding this or that; the only admonition was if we left the table without permission. 

Years later I feel the loss of the communal meal. There have been substitutes, the office potluck, the ritual of the pregame cook outs.  I can’t help but feel a loss that nothing has supplanted.

Hambre is the lusting for a time when to gather round a meal was an expectation, a celebration, and not an imposed ritual to preserve a unity slowly disappearing with each passing generation.

Doña Emerita sets a table

Where sprigs bud into flowers

an eternal spring burst into song

   Enrique Cercos

She slices the avocados 

spreads them like 

fans on her mother’s 

favorite plate then

sets them on the table

A large basket with a towel  

smothering hot tortillas 

finds a prominent place

next to the bubbling 

olla de frijoles 

A savory mix of 

tomatillos peppers onions 

fills the salsa bowl 

Dishes of radishes cucumbers

cilantro and plump limes

brining in vinegar and salt

decorate the table

She brings the pan of rice 

with bits of corn carrots 

sets it leaving space for

the copper pot he brings

still steaming pungent 

the aroma of broiled carnitas 

the skin charred golden hot 

like a summer sun

He brings plates napkins glasses 

an array of drinks  

palliative to intoxicating

some in bottles some 

in multicolored pitchers

He claps his hands 

and steps aside

Siblings, cousins, parents

friends and more children

than the beans in the pot 

enter one by one in reverence

solemnity and hunger

Quickly filling their plates 

they grab cups move outside

where their chatter laughter

debates and salutations

drown the song of cooing birds

the bark of dogs the snark hisses

of the cats that congregate by the gate

and the slow steps of passersby

casual greetings and

the slow fade to good nights

She watches at the window

sips her Mezcal wipes her hands 

on the stained apron

tells him when he asks

what are you thinking

Can you ask Juan to bring

his best chickens 

I have something in mind

for next month’s dinner

End of the road

Thousands of corn stalks from the first door

Sleep is not a constant companion

Dreams are houses for demons

I rest with eyes half closed

a mouth open for water

one eye on the machete

by the side of the door

another honest eye on the road

The old man says before the sun falls

We will eat in Eldorado’s gilded hall

Tales of the ancestors

Along paths crossed 

by the first clans

vested in feather gowns before

metal breastplates and cannonades

penitent charlatans in search of the sun

burnt the bronze off our skin

These are the last steps

We walk with heads forward

navigating signposts 

deep in the ground

the yellow lines

threads of gold leaf

loose in the air phantasms

whispering our name in passing

with seeds of flour and corn

in our bags and the chants

spinning dervish in the air

Like prodigals welcomed

at the last meal of the dying sun

we will march to Cibola’s seven cities

past Aztlan’s and Eldorado’s grand halls

to Quivira to prepare the last meal 

and eat for the first time

Gumbo mumbo

I see the ladyfingers 

drawn to them by the white 

and yellow petals joined 

by spots of alizarin

faux hibiscus mimes 

Grapes withering on the vine 

betray more promise 

than the limp fruit 

at the tendrils of the stalks 

shyly pleading their due 

I pick the five-fold flower clean 

hold each a mirror to the sun 

trace the lines to the cup 

the fused stem to the stalk 

pluck the green fruit 

cut the sheath in half 

pull seed from the pentagon 

take a nip and swallow 

and retch both to the street

 

A bitter harvest here 

If nettles covered its surface 

there would still be those 

would dissect and scavenge 

a succulence only 

bitter tongues enjoy 

The secret lies in omissions 

roux will not accommodate 

what the palette can’t embrace

Lucía Vidales’ Hambre was the ninth annual Atrium Project commission for the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art and was on view from September 19, 2024 to September 6, 2025.

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